From the monthly archives:

May 2008

Eating in Tokyo

by Cat on May 30, 2008

Updated with 1 photo.

Thursday was very rainy so Susi and I stayed around the hotel much of the day. There is an underground shopping center connected to the Hilton that has several stores, a coffeehouse and access to the Nishi-Shinjuku subway station. When she got bored, we just walked around there. (Bonus: Two very good naps.)

So most of this post is going to be devoted to food. I’ll update it with some photos later.

Thursday night, David’s coworkers took us out to Sumibi Dining Lin, a Hibachi-style restaurant. The concept is somewhat similar to a galbi/bulgogi-type place in Korea. We grilled different courses of meat over charcoal grills in the center of the table. But, where most galbi places I’ve been to have the grills built into the center of the table in some way, the wait staff at this restaurant brought square cement grills to our table.

We started with a first-course of fresh clams. They were placed directly on the grill and as the clam opens (this seems rather cruel, since you are cooking them alive, but they were good) they poured soy sauce into the shell to flavor it. After that, a succession of marinated meats was brought out, alternating courses with fresh vegetables placed on the grill. In general, this food was not as heavily seasoned as similar food in Korea. You eat the meat with a light addition of sauces provided at the table.

The final course was a congee made with rice and seasoned soy sauce with individual servings of roe and wasabi that you could mix in—very delicious.

I love bento

Based on my experience so far, I really love Japanese food and not just the restaurant fare.

Takeout Bento from Keio Department Store.

If you go in any convenience store, you can find this huge selection of prepared bento lunches and makizushi rolls for take-out. After our slight misadventure at the izikaya (related below) David and I stopped by one on our way back to the hotel. We got a noodle bowl and a couple of rolls to finish off our meal, but ended up leaving them for the next day.

When you open up the take-out sushi rolls, you can see that they wrap the roasted seaweed (laver, known as gim, in Korea) separately from the rice roll. I assume this keeps the laver fresh and not gummy from the moisture of the seasoned rice. As it turns out, even I could roll this up with no mishap and have a fresh, healthy snack on the go.

They sell similar gimbab rolls in Korea (though I have only seen the triangular version, which, in my opinion, is harder to eat), but the seasonings are different. Gimbab rice is seasoned with sesame oil and wrapped around many different cooked fillings. Sushi rice is seasoned with vinegar. Also, in my limited experience, they are more often wrapped with fish or fresh vegetables with a little sauce. Which you prefer, probably just depends on your palate.

Corrupting our daughter

Ah yes, I almost forgot. The izikaya incident. Our first full night in Tokyo, we decided to wander around the Shinjuku Station area to find a restaurant. Since Susi goes to bed rather early, we opted for convenience and decided to go for a quick bite in the bottom of the XX tower.

We found a place that looked nice (not too dark and smoky, bar-like, with attractive food options displayed) and went on in. The hostess was very helpful and directed us to a corner table in the back in the section of the restaurant that had floor seating. (Also, this was the Japanese restaurant style of floor seating with the space underneath the table to put your legs. Essentially you and the table are on the “floor” but your legs and feet dip down to the true floor about two feet below you underneath the table.) This is so much easier on my western, accustomed-to-chairs body.)

So, we settle in, order a couple beers and peruse the menu. We are excited to find two meal options (one lightly grilled sushi, the other lightly grilled beef and avocado) for not much money (700-800 yen, about $7-8 US). “Fantastic!,” we think, since we’ve heard how expensive it is to eat in Tokyo.

Except when the meals are served, they consist of a small plate with three pieces each. Hmmm. Even though we are not in the ’super-size-me’ U.S., I’m thinking this isn’t really the equivalent of Japanese dinner.

And, it’s not. As we look around, we see more and more Japanese people coming in after work, ordering some drinks, and, lighting up some cigarettes. We are in a drinking house. Ooops.

We quickly finish our tasty, but small, dinner, collect Susana from her cushion where she’s nibbling crackers and playing, and depart, wondering what people thought of us for bringing our 9-month-old out for a beer.

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Unfortunately spent most of this day on a desperate quest for diapers.
At home, Susana wears cloth. But, when we travel, she wears disposables. I’ve purchased several different brands of Korean diapers before with no problem. But, for some reason, the day before we left, I completely lost my mind and decided to go with a package of a different, much cheaper brand.

When we left Seoul, her diaper bag was still packed with diapers from our last trip. We didn’t try to use the new diapers until we needed to do a change in our hotel room—about 4:30 Wednesday morning.

Shinjuku Bikes-1That’s when I discovered that some brands of diapers are tabless! They have no sticky tapes with which to fasten the diaper on the child. I have no idea who uses these disposables, and if they’ve just trained their kid to balance a certain way to avoid leaks, but this was not going to work for us. We put Suse in the tapeless diaper inserted into one of her ‘less used’ (I know, gross!) diapers that still had sticky tapes on the sides until dawn when I discovered one remaining unused ‘good’ diaper in her diaper bag. Then, after David left for work, I began my Tokyo adventure on a quest for nappies.

Shinjuku Street-2

Given that I had a healthy almost 10-month-old in her last disposable at 8 a.m. the clock was ticking. I followed the directions from the concierge desk and—with Susi strapped to my chest in her pack carrier and her backpack diaper bag on my back—I climbed aboard the hotel shuttle back to Shinjuku Station.

The area around the train station is full of all kinds of shops and restaurants and the concierge had pointed me toward a “big drugstore” across from the main post office about a block from where the shuttle lets off. I think I found that drugstore (not being able to read Japanese, and not being given any kind of store name, I can’t be sure). But they said they had no diapers.

Kumano Shrine Entrance-1

The pharmacy clerk did point me toward another drugstore that she thought would have them another couple blocks away. I never did find that store. I did find a few other Westerners who said they were familiar with the area and pointed me toward yet another “big drugstore” they were sure had “lots” of baby items. But that place also—if the drugstore I found is the correct one—also had no baby items.

Kumano Shrine 1-1

By this time, I was feeling desperate. Susana was asleep in her carrier. It was after 11 a.m. and I was several blocks away from the hotel, with still no idea where to get diapers. I decided to shuttle back to the Hilton and get some tape in the gift shop and just make do. Lo and behold, the Hilton has a pharmacy. With diapers. They are only the Pampers pullup kind, but they work.

Crisis averted. (Narrowly by the looks of the situation when I finally change her.

I am bummed that I spent almost an hour wandering around some amazing shops (a giant electronics store that takes up almost half a block) and have nothing to show for it. If the weather holds, maybe we’ll come back later this week.

Shrine Water 2-1

After deciding to decompress in the hotel room for a bit (and put Susana in her stroller) we recovered our game plan and headed out to Shinjuku Chuo (Central) Park, about a block away from the hotel. The park is very large and shady, with lots of winding paths and beautiful old-growth trees. It’s home to the Kumano Jinja Shinto shrine (the link is to someone who’s taken much better photos of it) as well as a fair number of homeless people who live in tents covered with bright blue waterproof tarps. When I first saw the clusters of blue hills, I thought that park officials were working on part of the landscape. I soon realized that, no, people are living here. One man was even doing his laundry and hanging it up to dry on the chains lining the paths.

Shrine Path-1

Shrine Box-1

In the few days we’ve been here we have seen more homeless people in Tokyo than I have seen in Seoul. Maybe we just haven’t been to the right places in Seoul. I have seen a few men sleeping in subway stations or underpasses during the winter. walking to dinner last night we saw several men preparing cardboard-box beds in building doorways. Maybe the homeless population is just more visible here.

Park Statues

Coming in tomorrow’s post: Taking our daughter to an izikaya by mistake, convenience store maki, and more. …Tags: , ,

Tokyo, Day 1

by Cat on May 28, 2008

So far the trip to Japan is off to great start.

We arrived yesterday on a Japan Air flight from Incheon to Narita and caught the Narita Express train on Japan Rail into Shinjuku station. The train itself was amazing. Comfortable seats and a great view of some of the countryside (suburbside?) before getting into downtown. We started out passing rice fields and people on bikes and ended up passing under multilevel train tracks to arrive at the center of the city. All of the signs and announcements were in Japanese and English, so it was very easy to get around.

Train station at Narita airport.

Our one hangup was getting into Shinjuku just at rush hour and hauling bags and baby down a few flights of stairs and across several platforms to get out the right exit to catch a cab to our hotel. (Several subway lines as well as trains use the station, which is huge.) We emerged unscathed, and David grabbed some great Japanese takeout food for our dinner while I fed Susana in our room.

Car 7 on the Narita Express

We’re still trying to figure out the name of what we ate. It was thinly sliced stir-fried beef served over rice and came with pickled ginger that you could mix in. Very simple, but very delicious. I have to admit that when I first read about Shinjuku I really didn’t have an idea of what to expect. Tourist sites raved about the gleaming neon and skyscrapers (which featured prominently in the film Lost in Translation), but I was not really excited. You can see plenty of huge TV screens and bright signs in Gangnam and Jongno. But, our first view of Shinjuku at night was really amazing.

In Seoul, I sometimes feel assaulted by information overload. Here somehow the huge buildings and gleaming neon work in concert with neat, clean streets and wide sidewalks to look much more inviting, at least on initial impression.

It’s strange that you see a lot of Westerners in this area (probably because of the hotels) and hear a lot of English, but not a lot of people outside the hotel speak it. (Or claim to speak it.) So, I’m not sure how easy it will be to do some shopping, but I’m going to find out.

View from train window

Our room, notice the hotel\'s crib with mobile.

David has to work, but Susana and I plan to get out some today since the forecast is for nothing but rain tomorrow.

Spring break

by Cat on May 25, 2008

We just returned from a quick trip with friends out to Farm Herbnara in Gangwon Province. It’s an amazing organic herb farm in the Heungjeong Valley near Pyeongchang.

As much as I like to think of myself as a city person, I just can’t stay sane very long in Seoul unless I make periodic trips out to the countryside. Friday and Saturday we got lots of fresh air, ate delicious food and gazed at tree-covered moutains without a skyscraper in sight.

I put some photos up on Flickr here. David took most of these shots. I’ll post more later with some descriptions and D will probably add some on his Naver photo blog.