Posts tagged as:

Life in Korea

The senseless will never make sense

by Cat on April 19, 2007

The mass killing at Virginia Tech has been all over the news and the blogosphere here since the disclosure that the gunman was an ethnic Korean raised in the United States.

The most surprising thing, for me—in addition to just the inherent shock involved in something so ghastly—is the number of Korean people here who seem to assume that Americans will hold all Koreans responsible.

This evening, David told me that he greeted the cab driver who took him to the train station with his usual icebreaker, “날씨가 좋아요.” (”It’s good weather [today]).”

The driver responded that it was, but that he was sick at heart (because of the shootings) and ashamed that the person responsible turned out to be Korean.

When I got to work today, my boss came over to ask if I’d heard about the tragedy—when I said I assumed he meant the shootings—he nodded and pointed out that he thought Cho Seung-Hui must have been badly abused, or had parents who were unable to take care of him, for something like this to have happened.

I told him what I’ve thought since I read the first news reports about who it was: The man seemed to be mentally ill and not rational, to have suffered some sort of psychotic break–though, really, we will never know.

But for me, it wouldn’t matter if he were Korean or Bosnian or a native-born American citizen, or whatever. He is no more representative of all Koreans than Sulejman Talovic was of his countrymen, nor Eric Harris and Dylan Klebold were representative of all Americans.

Living here, I do understand that Korean families tend to have a collective sense of responsibility for the actions of individual members. But to extend that to the entire country and/or persons of Korean ancestry?

I also think it’s useless to question whether there’s some element of Korean society that’s played some sort of role. There’s no evidence of that at all. And, there’s no way we will ever know since the only person who could tell us is dead. I think it’s much more likely that this is another case of a seriously disturbed individual with too little access to mental health services but all too easy access to guns. That statement could describe any number of other lone gunmen, too.

I can’t help but think that if it had been more difficult for this person (and a lot of the other shooters) to get the guns, this might not have happened. I don’t understand why we have so little problem with the government secretly wiretapping hundreds of its citizens without benefit of a court order or going to extreme lengths to prohibit the transportation of potentially dangerous breast milk on airplanes but will brook no meaningful discussion of stricter regulations on gun purchases and ownership.

It’s as if there’s no middle ground between an all-out weapons ban and any restrictions whatsoever. In many states in the U.S., you can buy a weapon with no waiting period—provided you have no documented prior history of violence—and no requirements for safety training, licensure, or mental health screening. We put stricter limits* on who can drive a car than we do who can buy a Glock-9.

It may not have made a difference in this case, if Cho had to undergo a mandatory waiting period, take a gun-training course, undergo a basic mental health evaluation and, perhaps, submit references in support of an application for gun ownership. Maybe he would have done all of those things and the result would still be the same.

I can’t help but think that if he hadn’t simply been able to go into a gun shop, purchase ammunition and two handguns immediately, with no questions asked, allowing him to buy and keep deadly weapons in secret, accountable to no one but himself and his violent fantasies, things might have been different.

*Link is to a PDF document file.

As an American living in Korea, I’ve encountered several interesting combinations that would have seemed strange to me back home: pizza topped with corn or mashed sweet potatoes, fruit plates served with beer, etc.

Our weekend in Namhae provided a more interesting example.

Saturday afternoon we boarded a triple-deck boat for what was billed as a “leisurely one-and-a-half-hour scenic tour” of the surrounding smaller islands. I was imagining a small cruiser with a guide who would give us the low down on the different native species of plants and animals, maybe share some anecdotes about island history, and likely regale us with some well-rehearsed information on Commander Yi Sun Shin’s heroic victory over Hideyoshi’s invaders in the 16th century. (His famous last battle did indeed take place near where we were.)

Upon arriving at the terminal, however, our sedate traveling group of 11 joined a rowdy couple hundred other tourists, most of whom were disembarking from giant coach tour buses. We ended up with quite a diverse group lined up for boarding: lots of older folks who looked like they were 70 if they were a day; several families with young children; and quite a few visibly inebriated young men.

Things got even more interesting once we entered the main cabin. The first floor—at 10 in the morning—was a full-blown disco, complete with flashing strobe lights and blasting K-pop. Interestingly, this is where most of the older ladies decided to hang out. (And, I’d say that here is where I started to realize that maybe the young guys weren’t the only ones hitting the soju and maekju on the bus ride over.)

A bunch of them (the halmeonis, not the young sailor-types) gathered in a big circle in the center of the floor and proceeded to seriously get their groove on. Lots of hand waving, fist pumping and jumping up and down. Today I am kicking myself that I was simply too stunned to take a picture.

We proceeded as expected up the next two floors, past some folks lining up at the bars on the middle deck, and got seats in the rear of the upper, open-air deck at the top of the boat. And, this is where things really got fun.

We were just in time for the floor show.

[click to continue...]

Village people

by Cat on April 9, 2007

We just got back from a weekend tour to Namehae-do and Jinhae on the southern coast of the peninsula on a trip organized by the Royal Asiatic Society-Korea Branch (RASKB).

This was our second trip to the south coast, and I’ll post more about what we did once I have all the pictures uploaded. But first, I’ll start off with a sort of Korean trivia/mini history lesson.

On a previous visit (to Busan, Jinhae and Geoje-do), we’d wondered why so many of the houses had bright blue roofs. Around Seoul, you still see a few traditional style houses (called hanok), but they mainly have roofs made of dark grey or black tiles or shingles. By the coast, we saw all of these older hanok, but with roofs that had been painted bright blue or orange.

They do give the villages a unique, color-coordinated, look. (With Korea’s mountainous terrain, when you look at villages from the road, you’re usually looking down from a hillside. So, the tops of the buildings are largely what you see.) But, we still couldn’t figure out why all the bright blue?

This trip, we got our answer. According to our guide, it’s a legacy of former President Park Chung-hee’s New Village Movement.

During the Park’s drive for modernization in the 1970s, many farmers were still living in old thatched-roof houses and were then encouraged to adopt improved solid slate roofs, she said. But the farmers “thought the grey slate was too ugly” and wanted to paint them a brighter color.

During the days of the yangban, only the very wealthy were allowed to have a blue tile roof, to signal their status in life. This is why, she believes, many of the farmers chose to paint their slate roofs blue.

Not ready for this belly

by Cat on March 30, 2007

I have to say it: Motherhood.com rocks. Rocks it like Metallica.

Just when I was down to only one pair of pants and one skirt that I could wedge myself into, my ship(ment) came in. Since Plan B was to ask my boss whether it would really be out of the question to wear my drawstring pajama pants to work, this is definitely a good thing.

I placed my order on Monday and chose to pay extra for two-day shipping in the hope that I’d get my clothes within a couple of weeks or so—hoping against hope that the above-mentioned clothing items could hold out that long. My past experience with ordering from the few U.S.-based online retailers who will ship to non-military addresses overseas is that—no matter what the website says—it will take at least three weeks and maybe up to a month for the package to get here.

Imagine my surprise when, exactly two days later, I got my order! Right to my door. Everything I ordered, looking exactly like I expected it to—and it fit!

What’s that you say? Don’t they have maternity clothes in Korea? Of course they do. Lots of them. Cute stuff. The only problem is that they are designed to fit the typical Korean female body type. Of which I am distinctly not. Not even close, apparently.

Clothes shopping here has been something of an exercise in humiliation even before I got pregnant. I’m not sure who was more embarrassed—me or the saleslady at the Levi Store—when the only pair of jeans that would fit me were found in the men’s section.

Full disclosure: I weighed 138 pounds at 5 feet 5 inches tall before I got pregnant. Certainly no one is going to want to put me on a runway any time soon, but I didn’t think I was exactly in “freak o’ nature” territory, either. I think the real issue is that, while I have a reasonably narrow waist and torso, my hips are definitely wider than most women here. So, even the “largee” size things don’t fit me correctly.

(Don’t even ask about the looks I’ve gotten when looking for shoes that might fit my monstrous U.S. size 9.5 feet.)

Thank God for Motherhood.com. Right now, I think if I could have its baby, I probably would.