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Life in Korea

Hidden treasures

by Cat on September 2, 2008

The photos are from Saturday’s RAS tour to Icheon, Gyeonggi-do, the home to many of Korea’s best traditional ceramic artists. I’m still learning to use the new camera, so my pictures don’t begin to do the work justice. The level of artistry is just amazing.

Icheon has been the center of Korean ceramics for several hundred years, as the area is apparently the site of abundant good materials for making clay. You can learn a bit more about the history of Korean ceramics here.

It was so interesting to see so many professional artists, many of them second- and third-generation craftsmen, in a country where so much emphasis seems to be placed on going to a top university and then on to a career as a doctor, lawyer, or businessman. Yet, Korea has very strong artistic cultural traditions, seen in the preservation of several intricate traditional arts, crafts, and traditional music.

Family Dinner

by Cat on July 20, 2008


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Originally uploaded by David_Harris

These photos were taken this evening at 사월에 보리밥, a restaurant chain in Seoul famous for traditional, family-style Korean dining.

The dinner was especially important since it was our first time as a family seeing Alice and Hyeong-Eun since they got engaged - congrats you guys ! - and one of our last times to see Jennifer, K.C. and their boys Aiden and Max before they move to Shanghai.

As for the restaurant and its food, the name literally means “April-time Barley Rice”. Barley rice is one of the big dishes here, though we usually order a variety of food. All of these dishes are tasty and relatively mild in terms of spiciness, strong odors, strong tastes, and controversy (no dog meat stew, for instance).

I suppose the “April-time” is supposed to invoke images of Spring, freshness, and enjoying life. Despite the heavy rains, the description did justice to our evening. We had a great time with our friends and hope to them again sooner rather than later.

Where’s the beef?

by Cat on June 8, 2008

Updated to correct statistics about “mad cows” in the U.S.

David and I were interviewed Wednesday night for this week’s Seoul Podcast and, as I told Joe and Jennifer, I usually avoid writing about political or controversial current events in Korea because, when you write like you know what you’re talking about—and you don’t—you end up looking like an idiot.

I should have kept that in mind when I wrote this earlier post about the FTA beef protests and inadvertently aligned myself with the lunatic fringe.

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Source: AP photo published in the Chosun Ilbo.

Over the past month, thousands of people–including many middle school, high school, and university students— have participated in huge protests against the beef-import agreements in the proposed KORUS free-trade agreement.

18-year old Kim Chae-won stated her opposition. “Even if you don’t eat beef you can get mad cow disease so why in the hell are they importing it?

All kinds of stories are growing and spreading. If you eat beef infected with mad cow disease you die instantly, mad cow disease can be spread by air and water, you can get it from a kiss — every sort of false rumor exists.

To clarify: I am no fan of the U.S. beef industry. I think that large-scale cattle farming, feedlots and industrial slaughterhouses engage in inhumane and unsanitary practices. Most beef cattle are fed an inappropriate diet and then pumped full of antibiotics to encourage rapid growth and treat illnesses caused by substandard living conditions and feeding practices.

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However, there has only been one case of bovine spongiform encephalopathy (mad cow disease) ever found in the United States and that was in a cow that was originally born in Canada have only been three cases of BSE found in the United States. That cow also never made it to the slaughterhouse. None of these cattle were slaughtered and processed for beef. There are strict regulations to prevent diseased cattle from getting into the food supply.

Human cases of “mad cow disease” (the human form is known as variant Creutzfeldt-Jakob disease) take months, sometimes years, to develop and are believed to be caused by exposure to an infectious agent in the brains, spinal columns and nerve tissue from infected animals. You cannot get mad cow disease by breathing the same air as an infected person.

(The regulations that I belive most need to be strengthened and more stringently enforced govern the handling of meat during processing, but don’t get me started on that …)

Notably, Korea does not have a process in place to detect the presence of BSE in its own cattle, so Koreans could be more at risk from eating homegrown beef.

Really, though, I should just save my breath (and my typing fingers) because the protests really aren’t about food safety. They reflect dissatisfaction with the current president, Lee Myung Bak, adding in a good dose of anti-Americanism for good measure.

I wandered in to a discussion about this with Mrs. H. (She asked what I thought Barack Obama’s chances were against McCain and this led to a discussion of the influence of the media, which led to a discussion about the President Lee’s current approval ratings.)

According to Mrs. H, “most Koreans” know that U.S. beef is safe, but they are unhappy about the way that Lee Myung Bak has negotiated with the U.S., saying that they believe he has not “stood up for the Korean people” enough. She did go on to say that she personally believed that Korea had no choice but to negotiate trade agreements that would, inevitably, harm some Korean interests (small farmers, for example) because the country needed to participate in the global economy or get left behind. I didn’t get the feeling that this last part was a popular opinion.

Heeding the principle expressed in my first paragraph, though, I am going to refrain from speculating on the “Korean take” on the beef issue, except to say that, like Americans, Koreans are not of just one mind on anything. As compelling as thousands of students marching through the streets and fighting with riot police are, it does not mean that they represent the beliefs of the entire country. Even they don’t all agree about why they are protesting.

Given the large number of student protestors, and the ‘facts’ that many cite as influencing their opinion (that you can get “mad cow disease” through the air, that you can die within minutes or hours of consuming U.S. beef), it does make you question the role of the media, the Internet and education system here.

But that’s a post for another day.

Spring break

by Cat on May 25, 2008

We just returned from a quick trip with friends out to Farm Herbnara in Gangwon Province. It’s an amazing organic herb farm in the Heungjeong Valley near Pyeongchang.

As much as I like to think of myself as a city person, I just can’t stay sane very long in Seoul unless I make periodic trips out to the countryside. Friday and Saturday we got lots of fresh air, ate delicious food and gazed at tree-covered moutains without a skyscraper in sight.

I put some photos up on Flickr here. David took most of these shots. I’ll post more later with some descriptions and D will probably add some on his Naver photo blog.