Courtyard worshipers
Originally uploaded by cathilee.
We took a tour of several temples in the Seoul area. Unfortunately, it rained almost the entire day.
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temple
I am still thinking about doing a temple stay some time during our time here in Korea. Though a Protestant Christian, I’ve always felt drawn to certain practices of Zen meditation and Buddhist teaching.
Interestingly, the New York Times travel section has just discovered this unique (and growing) segment of Korea’s tourist industry—though this may not be everyone’s cup of green tea.
The meditation center on Ganghwa Island, about two hours from Seoul by public transportation, certainly seems like the sort of place that could inspire calm. The grounds are nestled between rice paddies and a leafy forest, and the center’s brightly painted temple sits several stone steps up from a gentle brook and a small pond stocked with lotus flowers and koi. Monks wander silently, occasionally gathering at an outdoor wooden table and offering tea and small snacks to guests.
But be forewarned — the point of the temple stay is not, as the pictures on its Web site might make it seem, to lounge next to a brook nibbling crackers as you consider what it means to reach nirvana. The point is to live like a monk. And monks, it turns out, keep strict schedules, are vegetarian and spend a lot of time silently meditating in positions that can become, quickly and without much warning, incredibly uncomfortable for those unused to them.
I’m really glad to see something so ancient and uniquely Korean as the traditions of Jogye Buddhism getting attention in the Times, which usually seems to write about South Korea only in the context to its proximity to Kim Jong Il, or, conversely, as the futuristic, hallyu -having, video-gaming, wired mecca of the universe.
But as for me and getting up to meditate at 3:30 in the morning? Hmmm . . .well . . still thinking…
*Picture ripped from the slideshow here.
(H/t: Marmot’s Hole.)
While some people may think Seoul doesn’t have much to offer in the sightseeing department, I think I could stay here forever and still not have time to take it all in.
From ornate 15th century royal palaces, bustling open-air markets, five-story electronics markets and more places to shop for clothes, shoes and handbags than you can easily work into the next decade, it’s hard to see where they are coming from. And I haven’t even mentioned the hot springs, spas, and nightlife, yet.
As for me . . . I am a history buff. Yesterday, my friend Julie and I spent the morning at Bongeunsa, the Buddhist temple near the COEX mall in Gangnam.
Established in 794 by Ven. Yeon-hoe (the National Master Monk of Unified Silla at that time), the temple was originally called Gyeonseong-sa (meaning “seeing true nature”). The temple was rebuilt in 1498 and renamed Bongeun-sa (meaning “offering benefit”). In 1562 it was moved about 1 km to its current location and rebuilt. Destroyed by fire in 1592 and 1637, it has been repeatedly rebuilt and renovated. The major restorations came in 1637, 1692, 1912, 1941, and 1981.
It was amazing to be in such an old and historic place that is still a functioning house of worship. While we were there, many people came to participate in chants led by monks or to meditate alone near the Maitreya Buddha or near the shrines in the other buildings. The temple grounds are a beautiful oasis of green trees and streams and wildlife surrounded by the bustling financial district of Gangnam.
